From Munich to Melbourne via South East Asia in April-May 2010, despite Icelandic volcanic ash and Bangkok barricades.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Day 11, 1st May, Pak Beng to Luang Prabang by slow boat

The second day of the river boat trip was longer but more pleasant than the first.
I had ordered two baguette sandwiches from my landlady this time, chicken curry and tuna, and breakfasted on a large omelette with a large baguette to go with it, plus tea ("we only have Liptons", of course). 

Two young girls were collected in a sturdy vehicle to be transported somewhere, possibly to school. I wondered whether they might be driving to Luang Prabang, and if so whether I could hitch a ride ...

The chickens under the table on the left are cleaning up the rice the young girl spilt at breakfast.
The locals are counting on the boat-traveller trade and are investing in even more lodgings with river view.
The way down to the boat is steep and rocky, but going down is easier so I did it without help. My backpack-trolley wheels got a bit damaged on the gravel roads though. Here are later travellers making their way carefully down the slope.

It was a different boat today, confusing at first, until one had identified enough fellow-passengers from yesterday to be sure it was really the one to LP, not the one going back upstream. We set sail at about 9:30 am with considerably fewer passengers than the day before, though I can't imagine what happened to them. Anyway, it made things even more comfortable. A big bonus for me was securing one of the few upholstered seats at the rear of the boat, which changed the trip from martyrdom to something like relaxation. I snaffled a cushion from the back as well, and managed to keep the bench in front of us free, so it was even possible to put my feet up. Here's me looking happy about that. Next to me is Andrew, from San Francisco, who couldn't resist my advances when I asked if the seat next to him with his rucksack on it were free.
 Also, the sales area at the back sold not only drinks but also food, not that I needed any with my two baguettes and three bananas I'd bought at a stall on the way to the boat.
And the toilet was an upgraded version with a pretty window, almost luxury!
At the front of the boat carpets were laid down and travellers settled down comfortably to lounge and sleep and play cards. The fond French couple spent most of their day perched on the side.
 And here you can see what a difference just a slightly wider aisle makes.
 The scenery was much the same as the previous day, so I spent quite a while reading, like many others.  However Guns, Germs and Steel is pretty dense stuff, so I took a lot of breaks.
The boat next to us trying to manoevre out of the way.
Two monks getting off at a village.

Some young people disappointed about lack of sales.
Another boat going by.
Some boys playing.
Here it looked as if the rocks were blocking off the entire river, but our captain found a way around.

This is Pak Ou cave, a popular half-day excursion from Luang Prabang, a good sign that the journey will not last forever.
Abendstimmung auf der Mekong, as some Germans might say poetically.

And at last, after 8 hours, destination in sight, Luang Prabang!
A pretty riverside town miles away from anywhere, with luxuriant greenery draping colonial and local Lao architecture.

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